Simpson's-in-the-Strand, London WC2: A Journey Through British Culinary Nostalgia
In the heart of London's Strand, nestled between the bustling streets and the whispers of history, lies Simpson's-in-the-Strand, a restaurant that transports diners to a bygone era of British culinary delights. Stepping into the Grand Divan dining room, one is instantly enveloped in a cozy ambiance, reminiscent of a quaint, yet posh canteen. The author, accompanied by their friend Hugh, embarks on a gastronomic journey through the restaurant's rich tapestry of flavors and memories.
The restaurant's history, dating back to 1828, adds to its allure. The dining hall, with its dark brown paneling, chandeliers, and black-waistcoated servers, evokes a sense of grandeur and nostalgia. The author and Hugh find themselves reminiscing about the restaurant's past, comparing it to the era of Samuel Pepys and the British establishment. The menu, a celebration of British cuisine, features a delightful array of dishes, each with its own unique story.
From the hearty bubble and squeak to the classic bacon chop, the dishes are a testament to the comfort and warmth of British cuisine. The 'pies and puddings of the day' menu, in particular, stands out, offering a different pie and pudding each day, from beef and ale to ox cheek and steak and kidney. The author's nostalgia for spotted dick, a moist slab of currant-strewn British mediocrity, takes them back to their childhood, where it was served with Nestlé Tip Top and Jim Bowen's Bullseye.
The beef rib trolley, a centerpiece of the dining experience, is a culinary masterpiece. The rare, fiery horseradish, Yorkshire pudding, gravy, and a tureen of roasted potatoes and root vegetables make it a hearty and satisfying meal. The author's description of the dish is a testament to the restaurant's commitment to quality and flavor.
Simpson's-in-the-Strand's menu is a celebration of British cheese, offering a trolley of various cheeses, each paired with chutney and fruit bread. The author's appreciation for the sweet house hock with boiled ham and parsley sauce showcases the restaurant's attention to detail and its ability to cater to diverse tastes.
The food, while not earth-shattering, is described as wholly sufficient, acceptable, and, at times, rather lovely. The Grand Divan prawn cocktail, featuring three large prawns and an army of small dressed ones, is a nicely staged dish. The roast loin of cod with wilted greens and lobster bisque sauce is praised for its flaky fish and rich, glossy sauce.
However, the mini croquembouche, a small, dry creation, falls short of expectations. Despite its British charm, it fails to impress a French person's palate. Yet, the author finds something truly special about Simpson's-in-the-Strand. The oldness, properness, and dependability of the restaurant make it a sanctuary in a fast-paced world. It is a place where one can lean on for nourishment and comfort.
In conclusion, Simpson's-in-the-Strand is a restaurant that transcends time and culinary trends. It is a haven for those seeking a nostalgic journey through British cuisine, offering a delightful blend of comfort, warmth, and a sense of occasion. The author's personal connection to the restaurant and its food highlights the enduring appeal of British culinary traditions, leaving a lasting impression on both the palate and the heart.
